Jil Sander: Olfactory Chapter II First Impressions

Chapter II, the second installment of the Jil Sander reviews. This is a very newly released collection at this point, only a few months, and I was really interested in trying out Sesame. As I already covered last time - Jil Sander definitely makes niche perfume, everything feels like an experience of notes you already know and love, but making it abstract and atmospheric in a way that mainstream perfume doesn't deign to do, it's not abstract, but an impression of a moment, it's artistic and interesting in a way that I don't really experience outside of more niche stores and brands, and I was really excited to try these. 

• Sesame (2026): Upcycled toasted Cocoa Shell, CO₂-extracted Oakwood, Cedarwood.

Ah - what a let down. While you do get the slightest hit of nuttiness from the sesame, it's very faint and vanishes almost entirely generic sweet otherwise. It feels like every other kinda vaguely sweet wood but not very woody dense scent, and I really wish there was a little more sesame to keep me going, especially considering how fragrant and loud sesame tends to be in everything. I wanted more, but this isn't much to write home about. 

• Salt (2026): Vanilla, Cardamom, Lavender.

This was probably the only scrubber in the collection for me. It's evocative tho. Marine notes and salt notes are something I often find myself enjoying, but this one is strangely sweaty and almost sour - like prawns you left out a little too long. While it tempers itself a little more after dry down, this makes me immediately make a face, and I'm not sure we really want that. 

• Shiso (2026): Upcycled Key Lime, CO₂-extracted Juniper Berry, Australian Sandalwood.

This was one I was excited to try, and I think I was actually incredibly fond of this one - I only wish it was slightly more shisho forward but for a newer accord, I really enjoyed it. Although I don't enjoy eating it, I like the scent, and this is bright and sweet, without too much citrus at all.This is something I think works really well as a summer scent, and while it dries down a little more generic, I think the dash of that burst of clear green shisho is a gorgeous moment of green leaves on a breezy summer day at the beach. Really lovely stuff. 

• Lily (2026): White Florentine Lily, Aldehydes, Dark Foresty undertones.

This is oddly, a scent that makes me think of jasmine tea? With the grassiness of the floral stems with the woodiness of the forest accords, it adds a tannic tea like quality to the blend, except I love the more atmospheric qualities that it adds to a generic white floral scent. I had a brief love affair with a lily scent, Bee's Cotillion (NCD), and this reminds me of a more atmospheric, tea take on that - although it turns a little more cotton and clean after dry down. Although it's not one I would purchase, I think it's very interesting. 

• Vanille (2026): Natural woody Vanilla, smoky balsamic resins.

I hate Vanilla Powder. But, I like this. It's boozy and fruity, but still retains its sweetness from the vanilla - while this is in no way a gourmand, this is a sweet, almost Killian like down-to-earth kinda blend. With peeks of dense amber and a syrupy, dark quality to it, this is an upscale posh vanilla for a night out at a jazz bar. I wouldn't wear it on myself, but someone classier than me is definitely wearing this and I would love it. 

• Mahogany (2026): Cooling, metallic accords, Ginger bite, precious Woods.

Another one of those moments - despite its name, this is surprisingly wearable and bright despite it's name. It's strangely fruity, but it's not bad, but a little forgettable for a woods scent for me. 

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